Matt Helliker grew up around the Mendip Hills in the South West of the UK. At the age of 14 during a trip to the South of France he became captivated while watching a group of climbers. Even though Matt had never climbed before, he realised that this would be his sport of choice. As soon as he returned to the UK he started to learn what climbing was all about. Progressing quickly, three years later (at age 17) Matt had already amassed a long list of ascents to his name, including "Homegrown" at 8a+, and "Supercouloir" (ED2) on Mont Blanc du Tacul, France.
“The progression from crag to mountain developed naturally and, eventually, I grew passionate about alpinism. It inspired me to not only challenge myself physically, but mentally. Research, route finding, equipment, weather, techniques, commitment, calculation, the personal growth and the friendships that arose between climbing partners and climbing in the best style possible, fast, clean, light and very lucky. This is what it’s all about for me.”
2001 saw one of Matt’s proudest achievements when he received the prestigious Denali Pro Mountaineer Of The Year Award after rescuing two sick and frostbitten climbers trapped high on Mt McKinley, Alaska.
In June 2006 Matt headed to Peru, which he’s described as a “chop route”, but came away with the First ascent of ‘Death or Glory’ on the north-east buttress of Huantsan Sur (5.919m).
2008 saw Matt and climbing partner Jon Bracey put up a new line on the east face of the Moose’s Tooth on the Buckskin Glacier, Alaska. Climbing in pure Alpine style,
‘There’s a Moose Loose Aboot this Hoose’ (ED4, M8, A2, AI6) saw Matt battle against dehydration and exhaustion to climb 1400m of vertical ice, mixed terrain and granite in only 2days.
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Annapurna III in 2010 was an amazing trip, even though Matt was unsuccessful due to ridiculously high winds, just being in the Annapurna range climbing on and being amongst the massive peaks was a really special experience, “Turning round on the East Ridge at 6100m due to the conditions was one of the easiest calls I’ve ever had to make, the temperature in the snow cave on one bivouac dropped to -20c and with the wind outside blowing a constant 60-70km, you can imagine what the windchill was like!”
As well as this, Matt also finds the time to do guiding all over the European Alps whilst still finding time to climb for himself. An ascent of the Colton Brooks (ED2, 1100m) route on la Droites saw Matt travel from the 3rd téléphérique on the Grand Montet up the north face, down the south face and back to Chamonix in a round trip of 12 hours. Matt also climbed the Colton MacIntyre (ED3, 1200m) on the north face of the Grand Jorasses in a team of 3 in a single day. In Feb 2009 he visited Norway to take on the amazing ice climbing this country has to offer, with a highlight of guiding two clients on the 6 pitch ‘Selton Fosson’(WI6)
Matt has rightfully proved himself as a member of the elite new-breed of ultra-talented alpinists, with cutting edge first ascents in the UK, Alps, South America and Alaska. He's climbed some of the hardest routes in the alps ED4’s classic north faces, French 8b rock, and onsighted Trad. E7 and Scottish Grade 9.
2011 was a full year for Matt, culminating in his ascent on Mt Hunter's incredible north buttress. The climbing of the steepest and coldest section of the buttress was filmed by the climbers themselves and released as the film ‘Moonflower’. The film itself won the best mountaineering film at the Vancouver Mountain Film Festival. 2012 will see Matt go to Ruth Gorge in Alaska, one of the tallest and challenging rock walls in the world, to climb a new route up Mt Dickey.
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