Last weekend was the third annual Alaska Ice Climbing Festival in Portage, Alaska. The fest is geared to climbers of all levels with several evening parties, a slideshow by Alaska Range alpinist Mark Westman and two days of clinics covering everything from a junior skill builder to advanced climbing.
Greg Nappi, an Alaska mountain guide and I taught an ice anchors clinic. With six students we covered ERNEST anchors on a fat ice flow beside the road. I’d never worked with Greg, so I gleaned a few skills myself. I’ve officially moved beyond the double fisherman’s knot, which is the world’s most annoying knot, and will now use the Flemish bend (in-line figure eight) to join my prussik loops. I also learned that A-threads are stronger than V-threads for rap anchors.
Overall, a great festival!